Should all auctions be put in the priceguide

[Guest]

[iwozframed]

Roz would it be poss. to show say the last three lowest prices?

$00.99
$52.99
$54.99

So then you could look and see that although the lowest was $00.99 the other two prices hit well over $50.
Giving you good idea of the true going rate.
Just a thought.

In my opinion yes you should put everything in, What if it's the start of a trend and the card really has become worthless(god forbid!).
Do you just keep leaving out all new info, because if I was selling then I'd want to know that the last 5 times people have sold it, it went for pennies.

[kbmum]

All you have to do is click on the "View all auctions" button and you'll see everything that's been entered, starting with the most recently ended auction first.   Once you're in the list of auctions page for a particular card, you can sort the auctions by date (reverse chronological order), price (highest first), and normal or variant.

[Tower]

I like to discuss about it again. It's only the auctions of sellers which can be possibly frauds i have problems with. These auctions do not reflect the market price. If we have a Potter Quad with no picture for example and the seller has zero feedback and only accept money order (no paypal), then it will sell for $100-200. Because everyone will know, the chances to get the card are very low, it's probably a fraud. These auctions should not be in the price guide IMO. High priced auctions (bidding wars) are totally different IMO. If the market (2 people) are willing to pay that money, it's okay, that's a reality. But if the price is only a result of the fact, that the winner has good chances not to get the card, then it's a wrong decision IMO to put it in the guide. See my Quad example, does that really make sense? 

I know, some of you say, bidding wars and to low BINs are balancing out in the end. That's true. But i don't talk about these 2 kinds of auctions. I only speak about frauds.

So i like to renew the discussion about this fact. Of course it should be easy to decide which auction are those "fraud-auctions". We need hard facts for the decision. My opinion is that these should be auctions of sellers with no feedback which don't accept paypal. Then it's easy to decide (and these are so rare, so it's not a big deal).

What do you think.  I would vote for that. 

[Sharon]

I agree with you Thomas.  This happens so rarely and there is always a big discussion over whether the auction is genuine or not.  It shouldn't be too hard to discount one card if we there is a general agreement it is dodgy - I am thinking of the triple auto that we were all speaking about a while ago, no feedback was ever left.

[beatles99]

I agree with everything Thomas has replied....the other price guide (grey area) that should also be considered is the one off variants
That blue Karkoff costume, a couple of months ago.... that I still think is an error card.....this card did sell in the $400 plus range
If entered into the price guide it would have taken the average value up quite a few notches where in real fact that card can be had anywhere for $10 or even much less
I know that the variant swatch of any Potter card is at a premium because everybody wants the best show set...but in real fact, the card variant or not is still the same card 1/400 or 400/400
Most collectors are just aquiring these great swatches soley on the content of the swatch ,the card it self is really of little matter
I myself have bought pretty swatches on the content of the swatch not which card it is...Maureen

[Anna]

Hi Maureen,

All the variant cards are checked off as variants when entered, so their prices won't affect the Price Guide averages.  To see the variant prices, you need to use the pull down menu to see the prices.  The average prices listed in the Price Guide are for normal, non-variant cards.

[beatles99]

oh Ok thanks Anna !!!!

[allender]

I don't think we need to worry over-much about averages, even when "one person's variant isn't variant enough to appeal to somebody else." But the 'lowest price' number can be misleading, and we might want to consider (say) eliminating the low two auctions whenever we have at least ten completed auctions, or maybe a few lowest BIN sales.

Sometimes the low end is skewed by early Buy-It-Now listings, where the seller was not yet aware of the "real" value of what he had. The most famous case is with the original POA set, where one well-known seller put up an early BIN for Pear Tree Leaves and another well-known buyer happened to notice it immediately; it's still by far the Low ending price. For a while after that, I snuck in some checks for new BINs while I was at work using a "company" computer.

Then, occasionally a card will be listed with misspellings in the title, or in a category that didn't give it visibility, or unavailable to USA or UK buyers, etc.

On the other hand, the rare weird results are part of the legends and lore of the hobby. Just like the auction listings of "Buy-It-Now for 0.01 ... Or Best Offer".

As a guide to my own bidding, I watch the last-five-average and the low result, but quite often the low result is so much lower than the next lowest that it doesn't help much.